Special Needs Equipment
Nabis Bathroom Furniture
Nabis Bathroom Suites
Nabis Shower Enclosures
Heating and Ventilation
Towel Warmers and Radiators
Washbasins from hib
Hib Bathroom Taps
Dyson Airblade Hand Dryer
Waterproof wall panels
Mira Showers Main
Coram Slimline Shower Trays
Coram Riser Shower Trays
Mira Shower Enclosures
Coram Shower Enclosures
Shower Booster Pumps
Shower waste water pumps
New Team Showers
Eastbrook Shower Enclosures
One Piece Shower Pods
Novellini shower panels
Bristan Bathroom Sanitaryware
Replacement tap valves and cartridges
Ideal Standard Bathrooms
Waste Disposal Units
Bristan Heated Towel Rails
Water Filtration Taps
LIFF Scale Inhibitors
|We are contacted every
day with a vast assortment of enquiries. Here are some of the questions we
are asked and the most common solutions. Please remember that similar
problems can be caused by differing factors. This page is provided only as
a general guide to help you. It is not intended to provide definitive
If you feel you can contribute to
this page for the benefit of other users please e-mail us with your
on the topics below to view popular questions -
purchase is still under warranty and....
you send me a brochure?
boiler and booster pump....
Using a combination boilers in
conjunction with shower body jets and large rain heads
System requirement when
installing a shower with body jets and/or multiple shower heads
shower mixer with combination boiler
I need spare parts.
shower pressure (using stored hot water)
swings (electric showers and mixer valves)
and technical questions
water pressure and electric showers
My power shower is making
'banging and clanking' noises and spitting at the shower head.
have a problem with my purchase and it's still under
warranty. What should I
Problems that require attention under warranty may be dealt with in several
ways. It is worth remembering though, no matter how it is deemed best to
solve a problem you remain our customer as your purchase is made through us.
We will always seek satisfaction for you.
These days manufacturers tend to underwrite the statutory guarantee offered
when you purchase a product. Because the manufacturer possesses expert
technical knowledge of your product it is often more expedient to allow them
to deal with any problem directly. For example, allowing them to make direct arrangements
for an engineer to call (should this be deemed the appropriate solution)
will shorten the chain of communication and can save an awful
lot of time. You will only require proof of purchase when reporting a fault
if you go directly to a manufacturer. A visiting engineer will either
repair, replace or make a recommendation to the manufacturer based on
If your product is faulty because of a manufacturing defect and is within
the guarantee period a manufacturer will either deal with you directly to
organise a replacement, or request you deal with us (your supplier) to make
the necessary arrangements. Misuse, excessive use, abnormal use or normal
wear and tear do not qualify for repairs or replacements under your
All products sold by us carry a statutory minimum warranty of one year from
the date of purchase. Any variation to this (for example where a
manufacturer might offer an extended warranty whether this be free or at
extra cost) will be expressly stated in the sales particulars of the
product. Extended warranty periods (outside the Statutory minimum of 12
months) are by agreement between you and the
product manufacturer. Any claim made during an extended warranty period
(i.e. after 12 months) must be made directly with the manufacturer or their
warranty agent. We cannot deal with extended warranty issues save to help
you with proof of purchase.
you have a technical or warranty query you will need to speak with the customer
For Mira products call 01242
For Aqualisa products call 01959
For Bristan products call
0844 701 6279
For New Team products
- New Team was absorbed by Bristan several years ago. Please contact
Bristan (see above)
(and KINEDO) Products
call 020 8842 4040
For Triton products call - 02476
For advice on other
products please contact us via our
Contact Page .
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I would like a brochure, can you send me one?
Because we have such an extensive portfolio of products it is impossible
to carry brochures for every product advertised on this website. We
do however try to publish as much information on each product as is
available (often more than contained in a sales brochure). Sometimes we will
even publish a link to a brochure where possible. If we haven't offered a
brochure, it's probably quicker to call the manufacturer and order a brochure
by calling them direct. To assist here are some popular numbers -
Mira - Tel: 0800 975 8790
(Literature Hotline) Fax request: 0800 975 8791
Aqualisa - 01959 560020
Bristan - 01827 68525
Sanilfo - 020 8842 4040
Triton - 024 7637
details of how other brochures may be obtained please call us on 02392
information contained on this website is in many instances more
comprehensive than will be found in sales brochures. Remember, web pages
can be printed. By doing so you can avoid getting snowed under with
information you don't want.
How? Find what interests you
then click "File >
or click the
of a printer on the toolbar of your browser.
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I have a combination boiler. The flow isn't great, can I install a booster pump?
No. The DHW output from a combination boiler may not be boosted. You are
at risk of contravening Water Bye Laws and you will invalidate the warranty
of the pump. Shower booster pumps are designed to take a low pressure
'gravity' feed and boost. Combi boilers are deemed 'mains pressure' devices.
Mains pressure fed to a booster pump may cause damage and invalidate pump
You should consider the type of boiler you wish to install based on your hot
water demands. Once installed there is virtually nothing you can do if it
fails to meet your expectations. Gravity water systems (with a stored water
source) are the only types of system that may be boosted.
Combi boilers are generally poor at supplying simultaneous hot water
demands. If you are likely to experience heavy demand you are advised not to
install a combi boiler.
Having said this, combi boilers can often provide enough water for a good
simple shower, provided the shower does not incorporate multiple body jets
or super sized deluge or rain heads.
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Can I use a combination boiler to
supply a shower setup with body jets and/or a rain head?
Almost certainly no. This is a matter of flow rate. While combination
boilers can produce endless amounts of hot water they do so at a relatively
slow flow rate. Shower setups where large shower heads or body jets are used
require pretty high flow rates at a reasonable pressure (2.5 bar +) for you
to enjoy their potential.
Anything less than this and you will probably be disappointed. You'll get
wet right enough, but water delivery will look more like a dribble than an
Remember, the more jets or heads you have running at the same time the more
this advice is pertinent.
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System requirement when installing a shower with body jets and/or
multiple shower heads
|Water pressure and the increased
demand on volume are important considerations if you are considering the
installation of a shower that incorporates multiple jets or shower
As you increase the number
of outlet points you increase the area over which your system pressure
and supply volume must divide itself. Put another way, as you increase
the number of outlets you must increase the supply pressure and flow
rate to maintain a status quo.
A pre-requisite for installations where
multiple outlets are incorporated is therefore good pressure and an
equally good flow potential. (*see note to accompany this point below)
As each installation and equipment used
will differ it is difficult to say exactly what your system should
provide. As a useful guide you should aim to have at least 2.5 bar.
Your attention is drawn to the fact
that everybody's expectation and desire from their shower will be
different. Some people feel disappointed unless they have been exposed
to a 'bruising' experience (also referred to a 'invigorating'!). Others
might find such brutal pressure quite unpleasant. One thing is for sure,
if you have just invested in a hydro massage shower pod and all you can
achieve is a dribble from the body jets you are going to be devastated.
Make sure you look into your system
capabilities before you spend any money. Some systems can be improved,
other can't. Here is a general guide to your possibilities.
1. Combination boilers - These are
generally OK for single outlet showers, what you might call the standard
type with a hose and handset only. Combi boilers are not good at
providing enough hot water for simultaneous demands, so they are totally
unsuitable for use with body jets or multiple head showers. Don't allow
anybody to tell you otherwise.
2. Mains pressure hot water systems -
Providing you have decent mains pressure (2.5 + bar depending on what
you wish to operate) a mains pressure system with sufficient hot water
stored should work OK. Remember, everybody has a different definition of
a 'good shower' so keep this in mind when deciding how much water should
be stored and what pressure is functionally acceptable.
3. Gravity hot water systems - these
are notorious for providing poor (low) water pressure. But happily this
type of system can be boosted by installing a pump. [Only a system
with a cistern fed supply of stored water may have a pump added. It is
in contravention of Water Bye Laws to add a shower booster pump to a
system fed directly from the main (unvented cylinder or thermal store),
and there's no point in trying to up
the performance of a combi.]
In many ways this makes the 'gravity
system' the most versatile. You can add a pump with a pressure that
suits both your shower setup and your shower expectations. Don't just
rush out and buy a pump though. You must appreciate what your changes to
the system will do.
*It is all too easy to focus on
achieving impressive shower performance. When you open your shower valve
you can marvel at all that water gushing out at good pressure. But take
a moment to consider where it is coming from and you will realise that
this high performance might not be sustainable. A booster pump can in
fact do it's job too well. As fast as the pump is delivering water it is
draining down your system. So much attention must be given to the amount
of hot and cold water on store. Yes, cold water storage is
most important. Remember, the cold water storage cistern (usually in
the loft) has double demand placed on it - after all, it is supplying
your hot water cylinder and it's your cold water supply to the
pump. So you must ensure you have plenty of cold water on store
otherwise you system will quickly run dry. Attention should also be
given to the size of the hot water cylinder. It is unlikely you will
want to stand in your all-singing shower and be blasted by cold water!
As a rule of thumb and a means to begin
your calculation you should make provision for about 10 minutes of
shower time. This gives you the ability to guesstimate the amount of hot
and cold water you will need to make available. To make the calculation
you need to establish roughly the amount of water your shower equipment
will deliver (the flow rate). So, for example....
Shower equipment will deliver a total
of 30 litres of hot/cold blended water water per minute. Multiply this
by 10 minutes.
30 litres x 10
minutes = 300 litres of cold water needed on store.
If we were to assume a 50/50 mix of
hot/cold water this would mean you would need at least 150 litres of hot
water available for you shower demand. Equipment type and pump spec will
vary calculations. The more jets, the more water you will inevitably
Never let your system run dry. You
could damage your pump. It is better to have more water on store than no
Just another thought, keep in mind that
pump output will remain the same. So don't loose sight of the fact that
switching between body jets to an single handset can change the
experience from good to brutal as the number of outlets reduces. It's a
compromise. A similar logic applies when using a single pump to supply
two showers. Remember you will divide the output from the pump when both
showers are used simultaneously.
Remember, we all differ in our
expectation of a 'good' shower. Some just want to get wet, others want
to feel like they've had a layer of skin blasted off them. It is
impossible to say what is right for everybody, so you must decide what
is right for you. The purpose of this article is simply to draw your
attention to the pitfalls.
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Can I use a manual shower mixer with my combination boiler?
Not advised. You should use a pressure balancing mixer valve, or better
thermostatic mixer valve. Mains pressure is subject to constant changes in
pressure. This results in an unstable water blend and temperature
fluctuations that can be quite severe.
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Where can I obtain spares?
is normally possible to obtain spares and service kits for shower valves complete with easy to follow
instructions. Provided there is nothing more serious wrong with your unit
this will often cure things like dripping due to internal wear and tear on seals and
'o' rings. Thermostatic cartridges will in time become stiff to operate
and unreliable, sometimes impossible to stop dripping. Replacement
cartridges are obtainable for the better quality branded products.
If you cannot identify your shower valve
Please do not assume because 'it looks like' something else that the spares
will be the same. Spares are specific to a product (make/model).
Service kits and spare parts may usually be obtained by calling us through
the Contact Page
Just a thought...
Consider carefully. Are you
repairing something that might develop some other fault next month? Repairs
can sometimes save you money, but you might be throwing good money after
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have a cylinder with stored hot water and a loft tank, however the pressure at
my shower head is poor. Can I do anything about this?
pressure at which the hot water leaves a vented storage cylinder is directly
related to the height of the loft tank (header tank) above the cylinder,
importantly, the height of the loft tank above the outlet point (e.g. the shower head) will
determine the pressure at that point. The greater the distance the greater
the pressure. Make sure
there is a good head of water. If you are technically minded, a 33ft (10m)
head of water will produce 1 bar of pressure.
There are only a couple of things you can do to improve performance:
- Raise your loft tank to increase your
'head' of water (creating a slight increase in pressure)
- You should also ensure there a no
restrictions or constrictions in the pipework.
- Ensure the pipework is the appropriate
size for the outlet.
- Also check that the shower is not
scaled or furred through limescale deposits.
- Consider installing a booster pump*.
*There are several things to consider
(including legalities and operational considerations/limitations) when
thinking about a booster pump. You are welcome to
call us and discuss the
also see Mira, Aqualisa,
Stuart Turner Pumps and
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does the water temperature from my shower sometimes fluctuate from
freezing cold to scalding hot?
There can be different reasons for this problem, but we deal with a couple
of the more common scenarios below:
most common reason for this symptom is that you are using a manual mixer
valve supplied on a system with other appliances demanding water while
you are showering. This can cause the differential pressure of the hot and/or cold
supply to fluctuate. If for example somebody flushes a toilet elsewhere
in the house the cold water pressure drops as the cistern fills and the
result is usually a sudden increase in temperature at the shower head.
Conversely, if somebody turns on a hot water tap elsewhere your shower will
go cold (as hot pressure drops). Washing machines and dishwashers commonly
cause this effect.
The above description can apply to both
gravity and mains pressure hot water systems (including Combi boiler
If you have recently had your
central heating system or boiler changed, make sure your shower valve is compatible.
Manual mixer valves for example do not stabilise water
temperature, so when used in conjunction
with a combination boiler or a main pressure hot water system are
subjected to pressure fluctuations that affect the hot/cold mix leaving
the shower valve.
Install a thermostatic mixer valve. This will stabilise the
temperature regardless of other household demands. A thermostatic shower
valve makes internal adjustments to maintain the output temperature
typically within +/- one degree.
pressure balancing valve may help, but as the name suggests simply equalises
the supply pressures within the valve giving a chance of adjusting the
output temperature with some precision. PB valves do not however take into
account water temperature, so if supply temperatures change so will the
A2. If you have an Electric
Shower and experience temperature swings it is likely that the unit
is not thermostatically controlled. Manual electric showers are at the
mercy of the incoming cold water pressure upon which they rely.
Mains pressure fluctuates all the time, and should somebody open a tap
elsewhere in the house this too will affect the pressure and hence
the water temperature.
The solution is to install a
thermostatically controlled electric shower. This will make internal
adjustments to compensate for incoming pressure, temperature or flow rate changes, stabilising the
output temperature to +/- one degree C.
If you already have thermostatic
equipment and are experiencing problems it is likely that the thermostatic cartridge is
faulty. In this case you will need a service replacement.
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Is it possible to buy additional parts, such as a new shower head,
complete mixer valve or
riser rail without having to purchase the complete shower?
If you require individual components or hardware (e.g. internal service kits, handset holders, knobs, covers
or replacement thermostatic cartridges) we should be able to help. -
Call us. We will be able to advise on products,
availability and cost. If you wish to place an order this
can be done over the telephone. If we cannot help for any reason we will try to
assist you in your search. Alternatively, click
here to look through our website for the spares you require.
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have looked through the website, used the product selectors and have read the
FAQ's, but am still
unsure. Can you give advice?
If you are still unsure which product will suit your needs we will be
happy to advise on product suitability. Please remember though, advice is
based on information you provide and can only be given in general terms.
You are recommended to seek the opinion of a reputable plumber who
is familiar with your specific installation or check with the equipment
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have an operational / technical problem with my shower. What could it be?
(issues include: unit
cuts out when in use, unit makes whistling sound during use, difficulty
obtaining correct temperature, schematic diagrams, faults, lost and
|A. If we can help then
we will. But remember, whilst we have experience we do not hold ourselves to
be experts. You
need to speak with customer services for your manufacturer. Below are a
few numbers to the larger manufacturers. Please
call us if you need additional
For Mira products call 01242
For Aqualisa products call 01959
For Bristan products call 01827
For Triton products call 024
For Sanilfo Products
call 020 8842 4040
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My shower pump is making peculiar noises. What could be causing this?
|It goes almost without saying that
your pump might simply be tired and worn out. With pumps, noise can be
generated by different things so you need to establish what kind of
noise you can hear.
bearings on the armature that runs through the motor. These days pumps
are generally configured to have an impellor housing located at either
end (on just one end with single impellor pumps) inside which is an
impellor mounted on the end of the armature.
After much use it is not uncommon for
bearings (be they ball type, bush type or ceramic) to wear. Worn
bearings can resonate, oscillate or vibrate causing peculiar noises. If
this is the case it may simply be time to bite the bullet and replace
the pump. Repairs, when possible, can often cost as much as replacement
by the time you've removed, repaired and replaced, and there's no
guarantee that you have diagnosed the fault correctly. Furthermore, one
fault can often be the precursor to others and so having repaired one
thing you fall foul of something else.
There are however other 'noises' that
systems with booster pumps can manifest that have absolutely nothing to
do with wear and tear.
If you are experiencing noises that
might be described as 'clanking', 'banging' or 'knocking' in the
pipework, often accompanied by water 'spitting' from the shower head
then is is possible you are suffering from a problem known as 'cavitation'.
Cavitation is a problem where tiny air
bubbles form into a pocket of air, getting trapped at the low pressure
zone immediately ahead of the pump impellor. Noise is generated as the
impellor scavenges for water in the air pocket - occasionally grabbing
an aerated mixture and firing it from the outlet. This is what causes
the banging noise in the pipework and spitting at the shower head.
Cavitation can be caused if your
pipework runs in such a way that air bubbles are permitted to congregate
around the pump impellor. Careful attention must be paid to the run of
pipework to avoid such a scenario. Firstly, a dedicated shower take off
(or special flange known as an 'Essex' or 'Surrey' flange) should be
used to draw hot water from the cylinder. A dedicated shower take off or
flange is designed to prevent air bubbles from the hot water within the
cylinder from being sucked towards the pump. Simply teeing into a hot
water pipe somewhere enroute to the pump can exacerbate this problem.
Furthermore, when the system is dormant (pump not running) air bubbles
should be able to vent. Poorly designed pipe runs and attempts to cheat
the laws of physics more often than not result in a noisy system.
There is however another reason for
cavitation to manifest itself. As hot water approaches the low pressure
zone ahead of the pump it is encouraged to give up its saturated gasses
(all fluids contain saturated gasses).
An attempt to explain
When you boil a kettle, as water reaches
boiling point it bubbles vigorously. In other words, the hotter water
gets the greater the propensity for it to give up the saturated gas
Another condition that can cause this
'boiling effect' is a vacuum. The vacuum of space will cause an
astronaut's blood to boil without adequate protection.
Now combine the two in lesser terms....
very hot water entering a low pressure zone ahead on the pump
impellor.... saturated gasses find it easy to come out of solution and
form an air pocket.
If indeed this is the problem take a
look at the temperature of the hot water. Check your cylinderstat. Try
reducing the temperature at which you store your hot water. If it is set
to 60 degrees you might find by turning it down to 55 degrees you
eliminate the problem. If this cures your 'klanking and spitting' issue
you have just saved yourself a heap of money by twiddling the knob on
A lengthy explanation maybe, but
designed to help you understand the cause and cure for a very common yet
little understood issue.
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|Q. I live in an
area with low water pressure and
would like to install an electric shower. Is this possible and what should
are a couple of options. You could install an adequately sized loft tank
at a suitable height above the shower head to give you low (but acceptable
pressure) and use this to supply water to
a shower, or consider a shower such as the Mira
The Mira Elite is a
'pumped electric' model (Other manufacturers such as Triton make similar
models). The pumped electric shower is a slightly unusual variant on a
standard electric model. Standard electric showers require a mains pressure
water supply. Indeed, it is the water pressure that 'drives' water through
the unit and is responsible for the performance. The pumped electric shower
requires a low pressure 'gravity' feed from a header tank. An internal pump
boosts the supply pressure to an acceptable level then heats it electrically
hence - pumped electric.
Please note, the pumped electric shower (like
the Mira Elite) should not be confused with a power shower. Furthermore, it
must not be connected to a mains pressure supply. Water Bye Laws prevent you
from connecting shower booster pumps to the incoming main. And, should you
do so, you will invalidate the warranty on the shower unit.
Don't hesitate to
Call for more advice.
A 'pumped electric shower may not be connected
directly to mains pressure water.
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you offer an installation service or recommend
No. I'm afraid we do not offer an installation service. See
our Guide to Plumbing and
We suggest you look locally. If
possible choose a company by recommendation. Obtain competitive quotes for
the work you want done. If you are considering somebody, try to see previous works carried out
to check for quality.
Don't be guided too much by price - it's quality of workmanship,
reliability and service that are important.
It is advisable to ensure that your
installer is fully competent and insured to perform the task. If an
installer objects to you asking questions, look elsewhere.
There is nothing to stop you buying goods and
engaging a tradesperson to install. There is often a saving to be made this
way. If the installer objects to you doing this it is likely they were going
to make a profit on the supply as well. Some installers see marking up the
cost of hardware as a legitimate earning, not a hidden surcharge. You decide
whether you want to pay the extra.
Never forget, you are the boss. Do not be brow-beaten into having work done
and don't be frightened to challenge the cost. If the installer objects
strongly when you ask questions maybe you should look elsewhere and get
another opinion. An honest tradesperson won't object to you asking
questions. Why should they?
We would be interested to hear from you if you have had a particularly
poor service from an installer, or if you wish to praise the service you
have received. We may at a later date dedicate a new section and include